Saturday, November 11, 2006

So THIS is why I left Kauai

HEY, CHECK OUT PHOTOS AT http://flickr.com/photos/bike-nut/
They say pain creates growth and I suppose it's way more fun to read about misadventures than someones travelogue containing menu items and the great deals obtained after bargaining for fake Rolexes. Haven't written in a few days because of the latter. Visiting Kuala Lumpur was a highlight (as was the jungle at Taman Negara) of the journey. My first visit to a big Asian city and I loved it. I could write about all the food, the shopping and the great people, but refer to the above sentence and visit/experience this great, hot, humid, teeming, chaotic, stinky, crazy beautiful city on your own (you can see why I didn't go into sales professionally, but trust me KL is amazing). The Petronas Towers...maybeee the most beautiful buildings (OK modern buildings) in the world. "Used to be the tallest buildings in the world" doesn't sound as impressive as "the tallest" but they are stunning none the less. Apparently each tower was built by a different contractor racing to finish first for a completion bonus (which begs the questions concerning quality control) but while standing at the base gawking for hours nothing appeared to fall off. They do look like they tilt a bit inwards but that is just an optical illusion of scale...it's hard to wrap your head around just how big they really are.
I didn't even ride my bike to KL as I decided to take a bus from Jerantut. In a city where even walking is a negotiation of hawker stalls, chestnut roasters, mysterious but brightly colored icey drink containers, mopeds, the ubiquitous junk on the street, and oh yeah millions of people, I knew I had made the right call to travel at the speed of light... or 80km/hr after riding a bike for 3 1/2 weeks. It's been a week now without cycling: the crotch rot healed, no aching muscles, butt back to normal...so what then is blog worthy? What can I write about? Oh I know... the ways I create my own misery even when misery doesn't exist... like this:
Walking down a misty humid jungle path alone in the worlds oldest rain forest with the sounds of strange bird calls and far-off monkeys I was noticed the trail under foot wriggling. Upon further inspection I saw that the movement came from leeches...a lot of leeches, sticking their pointy ends up in the air. When they triangulated just where I was standing, through smell or my body temperature or ground vibration I know not, they began inch worming (LEECHES INCHWORM!) toward my sandles...my open toed sandles. If I sound like a girl here (and I wish I did because all the women I met had the telltale bites on their legs...tic-tac sized circular and hickey colored marks...yet they seemed not bothered in the least...saying things like "leeches just fall off after 20 minutes or so when they are full of blood) it's because I have a phobia of leeches. Not too irrational really and I think most people would give me a lot of lattitude here. But my thoughts, in the midst of this walk, weren't just that there were a few leeches on the path and that I might get bit once or twice. My thoughts were more like "LLEEEEEECHES!!!" All I could think about was leeches. All I could see was leeches or twigs that looked like leeches or leaves that looked like leeches. Momories of Humphry bogart and Kathryn Hepburn from African Queen pulling huge leeches off of each other came to mind. I no longer was in a beautiful rain forest but in a hell of my own creation. There weren't that many leeches after all and big deal if you get bit. But I wasn't thinking that at the time and really that is the point of this blog entry. Suddenly, I hated being there and left the trail after a short distance and returned to the river side park headquarters.
Later that night I was lying in bed and heard a rat chewing through the wall about a foot from my head. As I began to grab my earplugs, I started hating this trip and the experience I was having. I lie there in a misery of hatred. Hatred of rats, leeches, filth, humidity, humanity and ultimately of myself. I mean what a pathetic person I had become as I realized that I spend most of my time hating whatever it is I'm doing and wherever I am. Whether at work or in traffic or in a remote jungle in a remote corner of the world. Whether cycling or not cycling it didn't seem to matter and I understood more deeply than ever how much energy I waste trying to hide from the present experience and dream of the future or past. A deep sadness hit as I thought of the many amazing experiences I've had and the amazing people I've been around. Sad because I didn't really even have those experiences or really know those people as I wasn't present to them...I was always thinking of the next moment or the next thing.
I stopped reaching for my ear plugs at that moment and really listened to the rat. I stopped running from the unpleasant and just experienced that moment. It really wasn't that bad after all. A bit of gnawing here and a bit of chewing there really. So I relaxed into it and after a while fell asleep with a greater understanding of James. I understand more now why I have a constant low grade toothache desire for something else... always something else. What I want is unattainable...I want the next moment when all I have is this one.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi James,

Having some severe computer trouble the past few weeks so my cousin let me use his computer to read your blog and hopefully say HI.

Sounds like you are having quite an experience, both good and bad. Better you than me as I certainly wouldn't last a day. I'm thinking of you all the time (yep, just like a mother would) and hope that the rest of your trip treats you well. You'll have quite a story to tell when you get back. Stay well.

Hugs, Bev

Anonymous said...

hey james whats up? we really hope u are having fun! sounds like u don't have a liking for leeches. what a poor little james in the wild crazy malaysia all by himself! your crazy sister and weird nephew, sam and elliott

p.s. mostly elliott though

Anonymous said...

Hey Uncle Jimmie,
I've been reading your blogs and do love to hear your experiences and I know it's been said before, I'll say it again, you are a great storyteller... so please keep it comming. I also think it's wonderful that you are facing some of your greatest fears where most of us turn on the TV or look the other way... I want to have that feeling someday too. I love you and wish you well. Happy Travels Jimmie Bimmie!

Anonymous said...

Well good morning, here that is, to you James. Very interesting reading from you on this installment of the "The Ride From Hell". Me thinks you, as well as all of us readers, are learning things we may incorporate into our lives from your experience on the road. I am blown away with your pictures. Not only are you a good writer with a rather humorous touch but you take some magnificent pictures. WOW! The sunset, and yes that was an outrageous price for such accomodations !, and the fountain with the colored lights was fantastic. We have our own Discover Channel traveler.
James the conqueror in "The Ride From Hell". Good call on the bus ride as we want you back in one piece. Now don't forget if you don't write and send photos I will send the Devil Child after you. Keep smilin' bud.

Anonymous said...

Ramdomly ran across your site somehow? Love the stories, thank you. The true heart of an adventurer. And what better place then Asia to learn the lesson of presence... enjoy it all, and whatever may come ;)

Anonymous said...

I have ofen wondered what happend to you, and now I know,you need to come back to Friday Harbor. We visited Kauai a few years ago and I looked for property,to expensive for me,but we really loved the Island,I understand that the prices for EVERYTHING has gone up,up and up.
I enjoyed your blog ( first time visiter ) Have a good one on me and take care.
Cal Cantrill
ps: I used to call you Jamie and you took care of me numerous times
at the clinic.