Saturday, March 03, 2007

Who would've thought this was why I left Kauai

Hey! I have new photos up on the link if your interested check em out.
The heat was getting to us. It was the end of the day and after 10 hours of cycling out of the mountains and onto some level ground we were ready for the kick back part of the day. After heading south for the past 10 days the road started north again and the light headwind was getting annoying. Then after getting lost on smaller and smaller roads we were suddenly found. The dam appeared around a bend and we were almost to the guest house. Then out of nowhere it appeared. The road just shot up at an angle I hadn't seen since Thailand. One thing about Laos roads...they may be never-ending and damn steep but they were engineered with the idea of people actually using them...unlike Thai roads of which I've complained enough! But my legs were now jello after the long day and had nothing left, at all. We were both surly but I just lost it and started cussing and yelling at that hillside like it gave a damn. It didn't and around the next bend got even steeper. The spewing vitriolic hate that I let forth was powerful and started pulling me up the hill. Alisa was fighting her own battle and couldn't deal with my tantrum and told me to shut the hell up. I stood up and pedaled harder and with each stroke of my legs the cussing became more nasty and creative. I was out of earshot of Alisa now and having the big tantrum of this trip. My legs had re-developed the heat rash of southern Thailand and I was red-faced, soaked and mean looking when we came across two guys sitting at the side of the road. They smiled and pointed up the road when we asked if we were going in the right direction toward Na Nam. Normally this would have been encouraging but today everyone had the same response with differing estimates of distances. Ten kilometers back someone said, "Yes, Na Nam this way...maybeee 5 kilometers". Normally this kind of thing happens all the time here as people want to be friendly and polite and make you feel good. Normally this is an awesome trait that I love about SE Asia...friendly, smiling, and helpful strangers. These two pointed straight up the hill and said "Yes, maybe 2 kilometers". Normally I would have said thank you but it was good that I was panting so heavily or I might have started screaming at them to shut the hell up. As it was I rode off yelling at the road again and revelling in my hate fest. The power of anger is amazing and I tore up the hill using most of the little energy I had left. Turns out it was about a kilometer as the hill topped out around the next twist. And 2 hours later, I was feeling great and drinking a cold beer lao with the owner of a restaurant who used to work for the American secret airforce. ( Aside Alert! You know, the CIA funded nightmare called Air America that bombed most of Laos to hell trying to stop Ho Chi Minh as well as the communist insurgents in Laos. The airforce that ran more sorties in Laos than were run in Viet Nam! The secret airforce that dropped over 1000 pounds of ordinance for every citizen in Laos causing untold pain and death. Why didn't I learn about this crap in school, dammit?!) He still loved America and Americans and was so warm and sweet to us. With rotting teeth (some moving disturbingly as he talked) and love in his eyes he told of us repairing airplanes for the Americans. He didn't seem to care about the politics but he sure liked working with all the Americans. That was after his 9 year career of being a monk. In the morning he performed a ceremony and, putting a cloth bracelet on my wrist, blessed me and my family and wished me a safe and happy journey. It was a touching and wonderful connection in which two strangers from opposite ends of the world are sharing something bigger than each of them. But lets get back to my pain and infantile behavior for a minute.
The reason I began todays blog with my tantrum is that I realized something about myself in that rant. I can be a total whiner. I can be weak, or a crybaby. I can moan about the littlest things and I can be a real ass sometimes. In the past I always wanted to improve and change and "better" myself thinking that those traits made me unlovable. I got it, out here on the back roads of Laos, that nothing needs to change but the rediculous voice in my head that thinks I'm somehow incomplete! Ever! Somehow I came to understand (blame the heat) this week that those annoying traits make me human, not anything else. Sometimes they can even be assets. I don't have to be a certain way or have to change anything to be lovable. I've come to love myself on this trip. AND THAT IS WORTH LEAVING KAUAI FOR!! Having that realization has given me a feeling of completion and I'm ready to come home. I'm homesick for family and for my love, Sheryl and for a sense of groundedness that travelling often doesn't afford.

8 comments:

Anonymous said...

You are an awesom son and I love you very much. As for this blog, you have always been perfect in my eyes. Now that YOU know that, hurry home!

Love, Mom

claudia b said...

Cousin James---now i get it. i've never had an issue with your grunting and cussing, colorfully so, along the way here in your blog. seems that that's what powers you up those dang mountains! but now it sounds to me like this epiphany you had, with the older gentleman (he of wobbly teeth) and the cloth bracelet he gave you....have sort of captured in a nutshell what made all this worthwhile. blessings to you~~safe travels (in traveling containers that don't have water etc swilling on the floor...)gosh what a journey. ~~ Cousin Claudia

Anonymous said...

Although it has been some hard and lonely months (MANY) without my sweetheart here by my side, I am so glad that you left Kauai. I have tears in my eyes to hear that you are finally (truly and completely) in love with James. I have always loved you and I am glad that you now see what I (and most people who know you) see in you. It's not the goal...it's the journey, and what a journey you've had. I'm so proud of you, James, and can't wait till you are home again. Namaste...Sheryl

Anonymous said...

Okay, but before you go home and this blog ceases to exist, let me tell you what it's done for me. Yesterday, on NPR's "Travel With Rick Steeves" program, he was interviewing some guy who had bicycled through SE Asia (notably Laos and Thailand) with his wife (didn't catch the guy's name). Anyway, this guy is going along decribing strapping his bike to the roof of the boat for the trip up the Mekong and later describing the "Friends" bar in Laos. I found myself nodding knowingly and thinking, "Yeah, I know about that place." I suddenly realized that I only "knew" what you had told me about these things/places. But that's how real your blog has made it for me. I feel almost like I was there...except of course, I'm not sweaty or bug-bitten or afflicted with heinous anus or out of breath or pissed off as hell at the freakin' GODDAMN road up this sorry motherf*&%ing HILL! Anyway, if you do end your trip soon, it's been fun. Thanks.

-Steve Yoder

Anonymous said...

I have loved reading your blog entry for entry. You have had some amazing experiences, and have some wonderful stories to tell for years to come. I will miss reading these, but now you need to go home and enjoy what we all knew from the get go, that you are a wonderful person!

abe said...

you aren't home yet Dorothy! Buck up sugar, you still got a few comin' yer way! hope yoga rocked your world. love you tons and thanks so much for being an awesome travel partner. see you back in the states!

Anonymous said...

BINGO! Congratulations on the awakening. As stated I too have enjoyed your travels along with your pain, suffering, laughter, ranting, self-dissecting examinations, descriptive comments of people and places visited en-route and all things in general. Thank you for all you have provided to all of us.

Anonymous said...

WHAT??!!! My bike trip is OVER??? Say it ain't so! Gosh- my legs were just starting to feel stronger, too......but I do so look forward to seeing you IN PERSON. The journey is really never over or complete and YOU will be changing on a daily basis- its a fact of life! Otherwise, we'd all be stagnanting in an algae pool somewhere. Be sure to come by the Club and say HI! I'm gonna miss our early morning musings...>sigh<